Internet Info 1994 March/Internet Info CD-ROM (Walnut Creek) (March 1994).iso/answers/rec/bonsai-faq/part1

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From: [e-mail] (Michel Bartolone)
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Subject: The rec.arts.bonsai/alt.bonsai FAQ: Part1
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Archive-name: bonsai-faq/part1
Name: Part1  Version: 2.2         LastUpdate: 11/6/93 13:37:06

This is part 1 of 5 of the rec.arts.bonsai/alt.bonsai FAQ


Section 1 -- Table of contents

Part1
  Section 1  --  Table of contents
  Section 2  --  What is Bonsai?
  Section 3  --  Administrivia
  Section 4  --  Frequently Asked Questions!

Part2
  Section 5  --  Soil
  Section 6  --  Junipers
  Section 7  --  Indoor bonsai
  Section 8  --  Clubs, Associations

Part3
  Section 9  --  Reading material (Books and Magazines)

Part4
  Section 10 --  Suppliers and Nurseries

Part5
  Section 11 --  Dictionary of Japanese bonsai terms
  Section 12 --  Dictionary of selected Latin botanical
                       terms
  Section C  --  Contributors...



Section 2 -- What is Bonsai?

This was, at one time, the most commonly asked of all FAQ's; but
since The Karate Kid was first shown, it gets asked a little less
frequently.  Bonsai (pronounced bone-sai) is literally a plant
(usually a tree or shrub) grown in a tray or dish. Growing trees
in pots began in Egypt about 4000 years ago, mostly for practical
reasons, mobility, and convenience. The Greeks, Babylonians, Persians,
and Hindus copied the technique. The Chinese were the first to plant
trees in pots for aesthetic purposes, about 200 AD.  The art of
bonsai then moved to Japan with the monks, who also brought
Buddhism, in the 6th and 7th centuries. This data is supported by
a scroll from Japan's Kamakura period (1192-1333) describing life
in the Heian period (794-1191).*

   Bonsai as we now know it was perfected in Japan.

   The original bonsai trees were usually collected, already
dwarfed by nature. Today, however, it is probably better to allow
such specimens to stay where they are. In many locations, collecting
them in the wild is against the law. In others, the chance of finding
a suitable specimen is almost zero.

     One common misconception is that a bonsai is a specific type
of tree. Yes, some trees are more frequently bonsaid than others,
but bonsai can be made from almost any woody stemmed tree or bush
species. Some of the more classic bonsai are Japanese Black Pine,
5 needle pine, Sargents Juniper, and Japanese maples. In the past
20 or so years, a great many species not previously accepted as
bonsai have also joined the list. Some tropical trees, and plants,
such as weeping willow and Jade, are just two.

   Over the years, techniques have evolved which allow the
grower to change the height and direction of the tree's growth,
and in some cases to dwarf the foliage as well as the plant.
Today, bonsai is an art form, a living sculpture. There are certain
classic or traditional forms that can be found and followed, but the
basic rule of thumb for personal bonsai is 'If you like the way it
looks, it's a good bonsai'.

*(From The Masters Book of Bonsai)


Section 3 -- Administrivia

I'll try to update the FAQ weekly, or as often as required
based on the info submitted. (In other words..I'll do it more
often if required and less often if nothing has changed). The
FAQ will be posted monthly, and a file explaining how to get the
FAQ will be posted about half way between FAQ postings.


*- Corrections and contributions -*
If there are errors or typos in this text, or if your name has
been left off of the contributor list, please just drop me a
note. I'm very much capable of making mistakes...I do promise to
do my best to correct all errors found before the next release
of the FAQ.

The bonsai Dictionary is still under construction. I have some
of the most frequently used Japanese terms (according to my
limited sources), and I have the Latin botanical terms (again
within the limits of my knowledge/sources...) If you have
additions or corrections, please e-mail them to me at the
address below.

*- FTP sites -*
The Bonsai FAQ, and many other FAQ's, are available via anonymous
ftp from rtfm.mit.edu in the directory pub/usenet/news.answers.
The archive name for this FAQ appears in the Archive-name: line
in the auxiliary header found in each of the 5 sections of the
FAQ. The Bonsai FAQ is known as bonsai-faq/part1. (Each part has
a separate name..ie part2, part3 etc..)

A mail server also exists for accessing the FAQ archives. Send
a message to [e-mail] with the command
'help' in the body of your message.

An anonymous FTP server for Bonsai GIFS (and other types of pictures)
and other bonsai related files is available at bonsai.pass.wayne.edu
(IP address 141.217.25.20). Login as anonymous and use guest as a
password.  You can put images in the /uploads directory, and get images
from the /pub/GIFS directory. This allows the person responsible for
the site a chance to check the files before anyone can get them, thus
avoiding having the site terminated due to inappropriate material.

*- The Bonsai Mailing List -*
For those of you who for one reason or another can not currently
get a feed for rec.arts.bonsai, there may be another way to get
in on the discussion there. Subscribe to the bonsai mailing list!
Subscription is easy. Send e-mail to: [e-mail].
In the body of the letter, have the line:

SUB BONSAI <Enter your name>

The mailing list software will extract your mailing address from
the message header, so you don't need to put that in your command.
The messages in the mailing list are automatically posted to
rec.arts.bonsai, and all of rec.arts.bonsai is automatically
mailed to the subscribers of the mailing list! For a list of
commands, send the command: help   to the LISTSERV address.
If you have trouble, you can contact either me (Mike), or
Dan Cwiertniewicz <[e-mail]> for help.

*-European FTP site now available!-*

The FAQ and some other bonsai related files are now available East
of the Atlantic! If you prefer to get your copy of the FAQ without
the use of one of the transatlantic channels, the address is:
    ftp.lysator.liu.se (130.236.254.1)
The bonsai files are in /usr/local/ftp/pub/gardening/bonsai.


+++++++++++++++++++ CALL FOR TRANSLATORS ++++++++++++++++++++++
If you like Bonsai, and you can translate this FAQ into another
language, please do so.  You can either e-mail me the
translation, or post it directly yourself.  I'll add it to the
FAQ as TRANSLATIONS come in (if they come in...)
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
                                     Mike Bartolone
                                 [e-mail]
                                           or
                             [e-mail]
                  (first rec.arts.bonsai/alt.bonsai FAQ compiler)

Section 4 -- Frequently Asked Questions!

Q: How do I start?

    Opinion 1)  Get as many books as you can. Read them, and look
    at the pictures. Check your local phone book and for a bonsai club
    in your area. Talk to local Nursery operators and see if they know
    of any clubs in your area.

    Select a tree that has some of the basic design that you'd
    like to have in your final tree, and buy it.  Use what you've
    learned from reading, and from the local club/nursery
    owner (if he knows what bonsai is!).


    Opinion 2)  Indoors: Remember that immature plants should
    not be treated as bonsai, they must be treated as the
    houseplants they are. Give them plenty of soil to grow in
    and don't use too little fertilizer, or they won't develop
    branches and leaves when you cut them and the trunk won't
    grow in thickness.


Q: As a beginner, should I purchase a mature or partially
   trained bonsai, or start from scratch?

    Opinion 1) I think you should start from scratch. Your
    first attempts may never be 'show quality', but you can
    make a few mistakes without damaging a tree you paid for.
    It may take a bit longer to arrive at something that looks
    the way you want it to, but bonsai is (usually) not one of
    those instant gratification hobbies. If you get the proper
    book and some guidance, starting with some inexpensive
    nursery stock may yield some 'instant bonsai.' This approach
    allows you, as a beginner, to learn while owning something
    that looks like a 'real bonsai'. Stay away from trees
    labeled 'Bonsai' in MOST discount stores. Numerous people
    have seen some discount chains with dead or dying seedlings
    planted in shallow trays with a solid mat of pebbles glued
    down over the soil. The trees had not been watered; and
    even if they had been, the water couldn't penetrate the
    ground-cover. They were marked $10.00...

    Opinion 2)  The question should really be: Should I start
    from scratch with a small seedling, or with a plant that is
    larger?  Neither will give you "instant bonsai". The larger
    will have a thicker trunk from the beginning, and thus will
    look "almost like a tree" sooner. A younger plant gives you
    greater freedom to choose a shape for training. You get to
    practice different methods on different size plants: the
    larger lends itself to cutting down, the smaller to cutting
    away to encourage other growth.

   (And by all means, if you see a shaped tree you really want,
   with the right price, that looks healthy and undamaged and is
   of a species you know is hardy or is of a sort you already
   have (and know you can take care of) -- it _is_ OK to
   buy it.)



Q: Is there a list of plants that are accepted as 'good'
   to start a bonsai? (Latin names, and if to be in- or out-doors
   please) (Note: A more complete listing of indoor trees is
   available in section 7)

   Ficus benjamina         Indoors
   Fast grower, hardy. Easy to get the leaves small. Suitable
   for many different shapes.

   Ficus retusa            Indoors
   Similar to benjamina, leaves grow in a different pattern.

   Ficus pumila            Indoors
   If you want a cascade, this is the way to go. Cut often to
   prevent it from going long and thin. May die if the roots dry
   out totally.

   Schefflera arboricola   Indoors
   Schefflera actinophylla Indoors
   Can be cut down enormously.  Buy a 50cm plant and cut it down
   to 10cm! Must be shaped completely without wiring. Takes
   correct treatment to get the leaves small.

   Crassula argentea       Indoors
   Portulacaria afra       Indoors
   Succulents with small leaves, branch easily.

   Malpighia cocciera      Indoors
   Slow grower.

   Murraya paniculata      Indoors
   Slow grower. Gets beautiful structured bark when still young.

   Myrthus communis        cool winters - Outdoors
   Must be kept at around +10C (50F) in the winter.


Q: I assume that the time and number of times to prune the
   trees/roots vary with the latitude. Anyone have data on that?

   The answer to this is a bit more complex than it would seem.
   It isn't just a case of latitude. Localized climatic
   conditions can and do play a much larger role in when to
   perform the common bonsai activities such as pruning, and
   repotting, than the latitude. For instance, in the US, the
   Great Lakes have a climatic effect in a strip around them
   that extends from about 10 miles to well over 50 miles in
   width depending on if you measure on the eastern or western
   edge of the lakes. What you need is the USDA zone map and
   a chart comparing the climate of some of the cities in Japan
   for min. winter temp, earliest frost, last frost, avg.
   precipitation. etc. Unfortunately I've seen a lot of people
   try to do this and come to the conclusion that the climate
   (at least in the US) has no parallel to that of Japan.



Q: What are some good tools for beginners to purchase?  They're
   rather expensive if you get true bonsai tools. It would be
   a shame to buy a $45 trimmer and then realize that it's only
   used during odd procedures or only for specific types of
   trees/styles.


   The general concensus is that the only indespensible bonsai tool
   is a concave cutter. Other tools can be the common garden/hardware
   store variety and work quite well. Things you will need are:

   Small concave cutter
   Diagonal wire cutters
   Scissors  (Good moustache scissors or small sewing scissors)
   Chop stick (They are cheap and useful)

   Buy the best quality item you can afford, and take good care of it.
   It will be much more cost effective in the long run than having to
   buy a particular tool 3 or 4 times.

   You may also want to give some thought to watering "tools". If you have
   only one or two trees, a simple spray bottle, and cautious use of a
   common garden hose should be suitable for a while. If you get more
   involved you will probably want to get a .5 gallon per minute fogger
   head for your hose. Indoors, you can use a "normal" watering can..
   if you want a finer stream, one person uses a common button hot glued to
   the end of the spout. There is also a small fine spray "rosette" head
   which is designed to attach to most common plastic consumer bottles.
   If it is difficult to find, you may have to look at a bonsai store,
   or in a bonsai catalog.


Q: I have trouble finding the 'right' pots for bonsai, at any price, for
    my finished grove / cascade / etc., are there alternatives?

   One of the best ways to view an assortment of pots, as well as to
   speak to bonsai potters, is to attend a large regional Bonsai
   exposition.  Your local club will be able to let you know of
   upcoming events.  There are usually craftspeople selling an
   assortment of pots, and if one doesn't fit your needs, they may
   be able to special-order or specially craft a pot for you.

   An excellent American bonsai potter is Keystone in Pennsylvania.
   If they don't have a pot that fits your needs, they'll probably
   take a commission.


Q: I'm beginning bonsai, and I can't afford a Japanese pot large
   enough for the tree I just collected / for all of the seedlings
   I've started / etc.


   Mica pots are an excellent alternative to clay pots.  Not only
   are they much lighter than clay (useful for those large trees),
   but they usually cost less.  And from all but the closest viewpoint,
   they look like an unglazed brown or black clay pot.

   There are also plastic pots that look good until you are very close,
   available from several of the suppliers.

   Another alternative is "DIY" (Do It Yourself) pots. There are several
   ways to make your own pots at home. Pots can be made from wood if you
   have the appropriate woodworking tools available. Recently I have seen
   demonstrations of casting pots from a combination of cement, peat,
   vermiculite, and concrete re-inforcing fibers. This yields a pot which
   looks like a rock, and is surprisingly light weight.

   One other solution which has been used by more than one person is to
   use a plain red clay "drip pan" from a larger pot. You will need to
   make a hole or some holes in the bottom for drainage. These can also
   be painted to cover the fact that it is a simple clay pot.

   There are numerous other options. Scout out yard/garage/estate sales.
   (These can also be a source of trained trees, but, in the case of
   estate sales, be careful. If the grower is the one whose estate is
   being sold, there is a good chance the trees are not well because
   they were not properly cared for after the owner passed away.) Check
   for "continuing education classes in your area for pottery classes and
   make your own! There is also growing interest in a form of "casting"
   called "Hypertufa". There should be an article on hypertufa in one or
   more of the archive sites.


End of Section 4 -- Frequently Asked Questions
End of part 1 of 5 of the rec.arts.bonsai/alt.bonsai FAQ.
Continued in part 2